Publication details
From Beavers to Bottles: The Historical Legacy of Castoreum in Perfumery and Medicine
| Authors | |
|---|---|
| Year of publication | 2024 |
| Type | Appeared in Conference without Proceedings |
| MU Faculty or unit | |
| Citation | |
| Description | This paper explores the multifaceted historical and contemporary uses of castoreum, a yellowish substance secreted by beavers, traditionally believed to originate in the animal's testicles. Modern understanding reveals that castoreum is produced in the castor sacs, located near the beaver's tail, in both male and female beavers. The chemical composition of castoreum includes a complex mix of at least 24 components, many of which have pheromonal properties, contributing to its potent scent and varied uses. The earliest known references to castoreum date back to antiquity, where it was highly prized not only for its medicinal properties but also for its association with a bizarre myth of self-castration among hunted beavers. Ancient texts from notable figures like Herodotus, Aristotle, and Pliny the Elder highlight castoreum's applications in treating various ailments, including uterine diseases, lethargy, vertigo, and even epilepsy. Pliny's Natural History provides a comprehensive list of its medical uses, including as an emmenagogue and a treatment for toothaches, ear pain, and vision issues when mixed with honey. Castoreum was so valued that it was often falsified with beaver kidneys, a practice documented by Pliny. In addition to its medicinal applications, castoreum played a role in ancient perfumery. Recipes such as the one from the Byzantine perfumer Nikolaos Myrepsos in the 13th century, which combined castoreum with various resins, honey, and wine, underscore its significance in historical scent-making practices. The paper also traces the evolution of castoreum's usage into the modern era, where its role has shifted predominantly to the perfume and food industries. Today, castoreum is utilized as a natural flavoring agent in foods, particularly in vanilla products, and as a fixative in perfumes, enhancing the longevity of scents. Despite its decline in pharmaceutical applications, where it was once used as an analgesic and nervine agent, castoreum remains an ingredient in various luxury perfumes by major brands like Chanel, Tom Ford, and Loewe. The enduring fascination with castoreum, from ancient myths and medical treatises to modern-day perfumery, highlights its unique place in both historical and contemporary contexts. This paper sheds light on the substance's complex journey through time, illustrating how a once-mystical animal secretion became a cornerstone in industries ranging from medicine to high-end fragrances. |